How to Use the Curly Girl Method for Wavy Hair

Written by Jasmin Todd | Edited by Emily Liu

Last Updated: December 23, 2022 References

You’ve probably heard all about the Curly Girl Method, which is a hair care regimen that replaces damaging washing and styling habits with healthier ones in order to keep curly hair looking great. But you might be wondering⁠—can you use the Curly Girl Method if you don’t have curly hair? Or, are you a “wavy” who’s already tried the Curly Girl Method but didn’t get the results you wanted? No need to worry⁠—we have your back! Try these helpful tips to modify the Curly Girl Method for wavy hair.^{[1]
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Part 1

Part 1 of 2:

Cleansing and Conditioning

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Wash your hair 3-4 times a week. Shampooing too often tends to dry out all hair textures, especially curly hair. Typically, wavy hair doesn't get as dry as curly hair, but it still helps to limit how often you shampoo to keep your hair healthy and shiny. Avoid washing your hair every day and aim for 3-4 times weekly.^{[2]
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- The Curly Girl Method usually recommends washing your hair once a week.
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Go the “low-poo” route by using sulfate-free shampoos. Under the Curly Girl Method, you don’t use shampoo at all⁠—this is called “no-poo”—because you “co-wash” (wash with conditioner) instead. Since you have wavy hair, you don't have to worry about shampoo drying out your hair as much. Use gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to clean your hair without stripping out moisture.^{[3]
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- Sulfates are harsh and drying no matter what hair texture you have. Most shampoos put "sulfate-free" on the label, but it doesn't hurt to check the ingredients, too. Steer clear of ingredients like "sodium lauryl sulfate" and "sodium lauroyl taurate."
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Use a clarifying shampoo once a month to get rid of buildup. The Curly Girl Method recommends avoiding clarifying shampoos completely because they contain sulfates.^{[4]
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PubMed Central
Journal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health
Go to source} If you have wavy hair, though, it can be beneficial to occasionally clarify your hair. Stick with once a month for the best results.^{[5]
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"Scrunch" conditioner into your hair instead of "raking" it. Raking means using your fingers to distribute a generous amount of conditioner into your hair. Since wavy hair doesn't need as much product, scrunching tends to provide better hydration and curl definition. To scrunch your hair, gather up sections of your hair with your palms and scrunch it up toward your scalp to work the conditioner in. Then, rinse out your hair gently.^{[6]
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- Scrunching is also called the Squish to Condish method.
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Deep condition your hair every 2 weeks. The Curly Girl Method recommends more frequent deep conditioning⁠, but wavy hair doesn’t need as much moisture as curly hair. In fact, if your wavy hair seems to be heavy and limp all the time, you may be deep conditioning it too much. Stick with once every 2 weeks.^{[7]
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- If your hair seems limp after deep conditioning, try reducing how long you leave the product on your hair next time.

Part 2

Part 2 of 2:

Drying and Styling Your Hair

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Detangle damp hair with a wide-toothed comb. Under the Curly Girl Method, combs and brushes are off limits; you use your fingers to gently detangle your hair.^{[8]
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Research source} If you have wavy hair, that might not be as effective. Instead, try running a wide-toothed comb through your damp hair to detangle it.^{[9]
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- Avoid combing wavy hair when it's completely dry since that may cause frizz.
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Apply styling gel or mousse for more definition and hold. Apply the gel or mousse to damp hair. After your hair dries, use the scrunching technique to "break the cast" (stiffness caused by product). This softens your waves but still gives you definition and hold.^{[10]
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Use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment to gently dry wavy hair. The Curly Girl Method recommends no heat because it damages curly hair. Wavy hair can withstand heat a little better, especially if you use a diffuser and the low heat setting. Just fit your dryer with the attachment and place a section of your hair into the diffuser bowl. Lift the bowl to your scalp and turn on the blow dryer. Hold it in place for 10-30 seconds, release the hair, and move on to the next section.^{[11]
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- Always start out with the lowest heat setting to prevent frizz.
- Try experimenting with other diffusing methods, such as hover diffusing (only hovering the diffuser over your hair without touching it).
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Sleep with your hair in a high bun or ponytail. To keep your wavy hair defined and healthy, sleep with your hair in a loose ponytail or bun on top of your head. This will reduces friction against your pillowcase which can lead to breakage.^{[12]
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- Use fabric-covered scrunchies instead of hair elastics since they're gentler on hair.
- Sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase can also help prevent breakage. A bonnet can also help maintain volume, but it should be silk- or satin-lined to keep your hair hydrated while sleeping. Stay away from cotton and other drying fabrics that absorb moisture because dry dehydrated hair is prone to frizz.
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Refresh your style with water on day 2. If your hair seems flat and frizzy the day after you wash it, use water to get some volume and definition back. Just fill a spray bottle, spritz it on your hair until it's damp, and scrunch your hair to revive your waves. Then, air-dry or diffuse your hair to dry it.^{[13]
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- Water is a good option since it doesn't weigh your hair down like products do. However, if water isn’t as effective as you'd like, you can refresh by using mousse instead. Just scrunch the mousse into your hair and air-dry or diffuse it to get soft, defined waves.^{[14]
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- Stick with light mousses to prevent weighing down your hair.
- If you want to refresh your curls the "dry" way, try using a light oil instead of water.

Expert Q&A

Question

What is the porosity of curly hair?

Jasmin Todd
Curly Hair Specialist
Jasmin Todd is a Curly Hair Specialist and the Owner of Austin Curls in Austin, TX. With over 20 years of experience, she specializes in cutting and styling naturally curly hair. Jasmin trained at the world-famous Ouidad salon and is Ouidad certified. In 2022, Mane Addicts named Austin Curls as one of the Top U.S. Salons for Curly Hair.

Jasmin Todd

Curly Hair Specialist

Expert Answer

Curl porosity is the ability the hair has to absorb and retain moisture. It's a reflection of how much moisture and proteins your hair needs, and it's something that is important to know to help you with product selection. This way, you'll keep your curls in balance for health and styling consistency.