This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff writer, Megaera Lorenz, PhD. Megaera Lorenz is an Egyptologist and Writer with over 20 years of experience in public education. In 2017, she graduated with her PhD in Egyptology from The University of Chicago, where she served for several years as a content advisor and program facilitator for the Oriental Institute Museum’s Public Education office. She has also developed and taught Egyptology courses at The University of Chicago and Loyola University Chicago.
There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.
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Resin is a fun and versatile medium you can use to create all kinds of art, from jewelry to sculpture to unique pieces of furniture. Depending on the kind of resin you’re using, getting it to dry (or cure) correctly can be a bit of a challenge. There are several different kinds of resin on the market, so you’ll need to follow the curing instructions for your specific product to get the best results.
Steps
UV Resin
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1Use UV resin to create small objects or work in thin layers. UV resin is a specialized form of epoxy resin that cures within minutes under a UV lamp. Choose this type of resin if you’d like to make small objects, like charms or pendants, and want to cure them quickly.[1]
- You can make larger objects with UV resin, but you’ll need to work in very thin layers to achieve an even cure.[2]
- For instance, if you want to seal a large object with a layer of UV resin, you can apply a thin layer with a brush, then cure it under a UV light. For a project like this, you may need to use a large lamp or a handheld UV flashlight that you can move around over the surface of the project.
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2Select a UV lamp or flashlight with an output of at least 4 watts. Look for a UV light source that’s strong enough to cure the type of resin you’re using. 4 watts is typically enough, but check the directions on your resin product for any specific UV light strength or wavelength requirements. In most cases, UV lamps are stronger and will cure your piece faster than UV flashlights.[3]
- Some UV lamps come in the form of a hood or dome that you can place over the object you need to cure. If you’re using this kind of lamp, make sure it’s big enough to completely cover the object you’re trying to cure.
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3Add a thin layer of resin to your object and cure it with the UV lamp. After you’ve applied a very thin layer of UV resin to your mold or over the surface of your work, put the object under a UV lamp or flashlight. Aim to make the first layer about .1 millimetres (0.0039 in) thick. Hold the light source close to the resin, within around 1 inch (2.5 cm). Be careful not to touch the surface of the resin with the light.[4]
- Test the resin with a toothpick every 2-3 seconds to see how hard it is. Depending on the size of the object, it might take around 2 minutes for each layer to cure.
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4Add new layers and cure them until you reach the desired thickness. Keep adding layers to your piece and curing them under the lamp. Once your object is as thick as you want it to be, you can remove it from the mold—you’re all done![5]
- Take care handling the object while it’s curing. Because of the chemical reactions taking place in the resin, it can become very hot.
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5Put your resin object in the sun if you don’t have a UV lamp. If you don’t want to bother with a UV lamp, you can simply set your resin object outside in the sun to cure. However, be aware that this could take longer or be less effective if you live in an area with a low UV index or the weather is overcast.[6]
- Humidity can also prevent your resin from curing properly.[7] If you want to sun-cure your UV resin, choose a time when the weather will be sunny and dry.
Epoxy Resin
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1Look for a fast-curing resin to dry your work faster. Not all epoxy resins are created equal. If you want your art to cure quickly, look for an epoxy that’s labeled “fast cure” or “quick cure.”[8]
- Slow-curing epoxy resin can have certain advantages, depending on your needs. For example, it tends to be stronger and more water-resistant than fast-curing resin. It also gives you more time to work with the resin while it’s still soft.[9]
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2Pre-warm your resin and hardener in a hot water bath for faster curing. Warming up your epoxy and hardening agent before you start using it will help it set and cure a little more quickly. Fill a sink or bucket with hot water from your tap, then let the bottles of resin and hardener soak in the hot water for 5-10 minutes before you start using them.[10]
- The water shouldn’t be boiling hot—hot tap water will work fine for this purpose.
- Don’t heat just 1 component and not the other! Your resin won’t cure properly if the elements aren’t the same temperature.
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3Mix the resin and hardener according to the package directions. Epoxy resin comes with 2 components—the resin and a hardening agent. Read the instructions that come with your resin and hardener carefully, and measure the components out precisely before you mix them together. If you measure them in the wrong proportions, your resin won’t harden correctly.[11]
- For small amounts of epoxy resin, you can measure out your components using medicine cups with mL markers. If you’re mixing up larger batches, it may work better to weigh out your ingredients on a scale.
- Use a wooden stick to thoroughly mix the components together. Thorough mixing will help ensure that the resin cures evenly.[12] Work slowly and gently to keep bubbles from forming.
- Use the recommended hardener that comes with your epoxy resin. Mixing and matching different products can affect how your resin cures.
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4Avoid mixing in too much dye or pigment. Adding in other components can change the properties of your epoxy resin. While it’s okay to add a little liquid or powder pigment to give your resin a hint of color, take care not to go overboard. If more than about 7% of your mixture is pigment, the resin might not cure properly.[13]
- Experiment with adding just a few drops of your pigment of choice to see if you can get the result you want.
- You can buy liquid pigments that are formulated to work with epoxy resins, or mix in some colored mica powder.
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5Keep the temperature in your workspace around 70–80 °F (21–27 °C). Epoxy resin is very sensitive to heat. In cool conditions, it will take much longer to dry, or many never cure properly at all. Keep your project in a warm, temperature-controlled area to help it dry faster.[14] While the ideal temperature may vary depending on the product, 70–80 °F (21–27 °C) is typically a good temperature range for working with and curing epoxy resin.[15]
- Check the packaging of your product for specific temperature guidelines.
- If you don’t want to heat your entire workspace, you can use heat lamps or a space heater to raise the temperature immediately around your project.
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6Apply more heat with a heat gun or blow dryer for extra fast drying. You can speed up curing a little bit by applying direct heat. Use a tool such as a craft heat gun to carefully warm the surface of your project. Keep moving the heating tool to apply the heat evenly.[16]
- Using too much direct heat can cause your resin to bubble or crack, so watch closely and move the heat away immediately if you notice this starting to happen.
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7Wait the recommended amount of time for your resin to cure. While you can speed up the curing time of epoxy resin a bit, it generally takes up to 72 hours for this kind of resin to cure completely.[17] Check the guidelines on the packaging to get a sense of how long it should take.
- The curing time will also depend on the size of your project.
- Resist the urge to handle your project before the recommended curing time is over. Touching or handling the resin before it’s fully cured could cause smudging or bumps on the surface of your art.
Polyester Resin
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1Adjust the amount of hardener to help your resin cure faster. Unlike epoxy resin, you can adjust the curing time of polyester resin by changing the amount of hardener you incorporate into the mix.[18] Check the instructions that come with your product to figure out which proportions of each product you should use to achieve your desired curing time.
- Make sure to use a hardener that’s intended for use with polyester resin! This kind of hardener is called MEKP. If you use hardener intended for epoxy or some other kind of resin, it won’t cure properly.
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2Slow down curing by adding an inhibitor. If you want your polyester resin to dry more slowly, you can add an inhibitor to the mix. This can be an advantage if you’re doing a complicated project and want extra time to work with the resin while it’s still soft.[19]
- A small amount of inhibitor goes a long way, so check the instructions carefully to determine how much you should add.
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3Let each layer gel, but not completely harden, before adding the next layer. One disadvantage of polyester resin is that it shrinks when it hardens. If you’re working in layers in a mold, let each layer cure until it reaches a slightly firm, jello-like consistency before adding the next layer. However, don’t wait until it cures completely.[20]
- It takes about 15-20 minutes for polyester resin to reach the firm gel stage.
- If you allow a layer to cure completely before adding the next layer, the fresh resin will seep down into the mold around the shrunken first layer and give your piece an uneven appearance.
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4Put your piece in a warm place to speed up curing. Much like epoxy resin, polyester resin cures faster in a warm environment. Try turning up the heat in your workspace by a few degrees or setting some heat lamps or a space heater near the resin piece as it cures. The higher the temperature in the room, the faster your resin will harden.[21]
- To ensure your resin doesn’t harden too quickly while you’re working, try to work in a space that’s around 65–70 °F (18–21 °C). You can increase the temperature or move the piece to a warmer space when you’re done.
- Since both room temperature and the amount of hardening agent will affect how fast your resin cures, you’ll need to factor in both of these variables when planning your piece. For example, if the instructions call for 4-5 drops of hardener per 1 fluid ounce (30 mL) of resin at a room temperature of 70–75 °F (21–24 °C), decrease the amount of hardener you use by 1 drop if the room is any warmer than that.
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5Wait 24 hours to several days for the resin to cure completely. The amount of time it takes polyester resin to cure completely is highly variable. Depending on the size of the piece, how much hardening agent (or catalyst) you used, and how warm your workspace is, it could take anywhere from a few hours to several days for your piece to cure completely.[22] Look at the package directions and wait the recommended amount of time before handling your art.
- Smaller pieces, like jewelry elements, may cure in as little as 1 hour.[23]
- In general, you can safely handle your art once it reaches the “click hard” stage (i.e., it clicks when you tap it and is no longer sticky).
Polyurethane Resin
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1Choose polyurethane if you want your art to cure quickly. Polyurethane resin cures fast, and it will often be ready to take out of the mold in only 20-30 minutes.[24] Pick this kind of resin if you’re making relatively simple pieces that you don’t need a lot of time to complete.
- For example, this might be a good option if you’re making some simple charms or pendants.
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2Mix the resin components carefully according to the instructions. Like most forms of craft resin, polyurethane resins typically come with 2 components, the resin and the catalyst (or hardening agent). The amounts of each component that you need to use can vary a lot depending on the product, so read the instructions closely before you start mixing! Otherwise, your resin won’t cure correctly.[25]
- For example, some polyurethane resins require you to make a 1:1 mixture of resin and catalyst, while in other cases you only have to add a few drops of hardening agent to the resin.
- Mix your components thoroughly to ensure even curing.
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3Check the instructions on your resin to see if it needs heat to cure. Polyurethane resin comes in cold-curing and hot-curing forms, and some of these resins can even be cured under a UV lamp.[26] Check the instructions on the package to find out the curing requirements for your particular project.
- If your resin needs heat to cure, you may need to turn up the heat in your workspace or warm your project with a heat lamp. Check the instructions with your product to determine the best temperature range for curing.
- Typically, “cold cure” polyurethane resin can cure at room temperature. You don’t need to chill it or reduce the temperature in the room—just leave it alone to dry on its own!
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4Work in a dry environment to promote better curing. Polyurethane resin is extremely moisture sensitive, so you’ll need to avoid any humidity while you’re working with it. Make sure your workspace is dry and humidity controlled, and that there’s no moisture in any molds you’re using.[27]
- Don’t leave your polyurethane resin outside to cure unless you know conditions will be dry. Keep it out of direct sunlight since this kind of resin is also UV sensitive unless it has the right additives mixed in.
- If you want to add color to your piece, make sure you choose a pigment that’s compatible with polyurethane resin. Some liquid pigments might affect how it cures.
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5Allow your resin to dry for the recommended time. In most cases, polyurethane resin just needs to sit for a while in a dry environment to cure. Check the directions on the package for any other specific conditions your product might need to cure properly.[28]
- The amount of time it takes to cure will depend on your specific product and how large the project is. Avoid touching your resin while it’s still soft or sticky to avoid damaging the surface.
Warnings
- Some types of resin get very hot during the curing process due to the chemical reactions involved. Be careful when handling resin objects during curing so that you don’t burn yourself.[29]⧼thumbs_response⧽
- Many types of resin can produce unpleasant or toxic fumes. Always work with resin in a well-ventilated area, and use a respirator mask the packaging recommends it.⧼thumbs_response⧽
References
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/uv-resin-guide
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/uv-resin/
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/uv-resin-guide
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/uv-resin-guide
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/uv-resin/
- ↑ https://www.radtech.org/magazinearchives/Publications/RadTechReport/jun-2013/The%20Influence%20of%20Humidity%20on%20Surface%20Modulus%20of%20Photocured%20Epoxy%20Coatings.pdf
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2010/03/11/slow-set-vs-quick-set-epoxy
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://facetjewelry.com/clays-resins/how-to/2016/09/how-to-use-two-part-epoxy-resins
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-frequently-asked-questions/resin-mixing-temperature/
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/polyester-resin
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/polyester-resin
- ↑ https://www.eplastics.com/pdf/Casting-Resin-Instructions.pdf
- ↑ https://www.eplastics.com/pdf/Casting-Resin-Instructions.pdf
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/polyester-resin#The_Curing_Phase
- ↑ https://www.eplastics.com/pdf/Casting-Resin-Instructions.pdf
- ↑ https://davidneat.wordpress.com/materials/casting/polyurethane-resin/
- ↑ https://www.craftprofessional.com/resin-jewelry.html
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/polyurethane-resin
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/polyurethane-resin
- ↑ https://resin-expert.com/en/guide/polyurethane-resin
- ↑ https://acrylgiessen.com/en/how-long-does-epoxy-take-to-cure/